Helpful Hints & Information Just a few Basics

Batteries, Meters & Compensation:
Earlier Konica SLRs used 1.35 volt mercury batteries. These are now illegal. However, there are 1.5 volt replacement batteries which will work. However, these will not give correct meter readings. Indeed, even original 1.35 mercury batteries may not always give the correct meter reading. Even newer Konicas, Nikons and othera SLR cameras, regardless of the batteries they take can give false readings.

The solution is simple. Use the Sunny f/16 rule, which states that on a bright sunny day with no clouds a shutter speed closest to your film speed is the correct setting for f/16 on front lit subjects. Therefore, if you choose a shutter speed of 1/125th second and are using ISO/ASA 100 film your meter should be giving an exposure of f/16 on such a day. If it isn't, simply change your ISO/ASA dial until it does. Your meter is then calibrated properly. For ISO film of 25 use 1/30th second, 50 - 1/60, 200 - 1/250, 400 - 1/500 etc. For instance, I have one camera that this rule says to use a setting of ISO 40 when using ISO 100 film. Another says to use ISO 80 using the same film.

Camera Shake:
Camera shake is the number one cause of bad photographs. The camera should be supported underneath by hand, tripod, bean bag or other support.

A sturdy tripod is always the best soloution, but not always practical. When holding the camera in your hands, hold it comfortably but firmly. Don't strain. Support the camera underneath with your left hand while opperating the shutter with your right. Keep your elbows tucked in front of your body. For added support you can lean against a tree or the side of a building or post to help keep you steady.

If you need more support than your hands and don't have a tripod, place the camera on a wall, table, chair, bean bag or other firm and fairly flat surface.

Never jerk the shutter. Use a smooth motion as you operate the shutter. Taking a deep breath, letting a little out and holding it will also help prevent camera shake.

Shutter speed is also a major factor. Don't hand hold your camera at slower shutter speeds than is required by the lens you are using. The general rule-of-thumb is to use a shutter speed equal or greater than the focal length of your lens. For instance, with a 50mm standard lens use a shutter speed of 1/60 second or faster. With a 200mm telephoto use 1/250 second or faster. In the case of zoom lenses, use the longest focal length of the zoom as your guide.

Even when using a tripod or other non-handheld support camera shake can sometimes occur. A cable shutter release or using the camer's self-timer (if yours has one) will eliminate the chance of vibration in most cases.

Aperture/Depth-of-Field:
Unerstanding aperture and depth-of-field is a must in taking good photographs. In general small apertures (those with the largest numbers, such as f22 or f16) gives the greatest depth-of-field, while the largest aperature (those with the smallest numbers, such as f1.4 or f1.8) give the least depth-of-field. Also wideangle lenses have better depth of field than telephotos.

Depth-of-field is the extent of the picture in focus at a given f number. Not only does aperture control depth-of-field but so does the focal length of lenses. Shorter lenses, such as 15mm, 24mm etc, give greater depth-of-field than do telephoto lenses. If your camera has a depth-of-field preview button or switch learn to use it. If yours doesn't and you have pre-automatic aperture lenses you can manually operate the lens aperture ring to view depth of field on whatever you have focused upon. Not understanding depth-of-field is why you might find that a picture taken that you thought was fully in focus turns out to be otherwise. On the other hand, having parts of the picture not in focus can also be a creative tool in picture taking. After avoiding camera shake, aperture and depth-of-field should be your major concern in mastering photography. Any basic camera book on photography will teach you about aperture and depth-of-field. It's a wise investment.

Film:
Slower speed film has less grain than faster films and thus gives higher quality pictures. Slow films are those with the lowest ISO/ASA or DIN numbers. The most common speeds are 25, 50, 64, 100, 200, 400 and 800. Even with the advancement in film technology faster films like 400 and 800 still show a lot of graniness in their pictures, especially when enlarged. However, faster films also make it possible to take pictures with better depth-of-field in low light situuations. Therefore, as a general rule, in daylight or with flash use slower films for best quality and use faster films where dimmer lighting will be a problem.

Films, for the most part, for SLR cameras is 135, normally called 35mm film. They are commonly offered in film cassettes of 12, 20, 24 and 36 exposure rolls, and in slide and print film varieties.

The argument that slide film gives better quality pictures than print film is to some extent a myth. Color and detail is often better in slide film, but quality is reduced when slides are turned into prints. Print film has greater latitude than slide film. It is not as fussy about light condtions. However, print film is at the mercy of the labratory where you have your prints made, unless you have your own darkroom. Try different processing establishments and stick to the one you feel does your printing as you think it should be done. But, for consistent quality and accurate recording of the picture you remember taking, slide film is by far the better choice.

There is also a great difference in color rendition from film brand to brand. The most popular films and those easiest to find are those from Kodak and Fuji. However, several other brands are available. I've worked with Kodak, Fuji, Konica, Mitsubishi, Solaris, Agfa, Ilford, and lesser known brands. You should try out as many different brands as possible, and even different types of film within a brand and then stick with that film or those types which most appeal to you. When shooting slide film I generally use Fuji Sensia II or Velvia. When using print film I generally use Konica VX or Centuria. Shooting mostly nature photography, I particularly like the Fuji films for their bright, bold colors. Kodak is more subdued. However, everyone's taste are different. Try different brands, types and speeds and find what appeals to you - the film which best expresses your vision.

Night and Low-Light Exposure Guide:
Here are a few guidlines to use when taking pictures at night or in low-light. These are based on using an exposure of f/8. Double them if using f/11 or half them if using f/5.6. This is only a guideline. Experiment for youself.

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