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Southeastern |
Prologue:
While always wanting to take an extended trip longer than a few days or a week for the sole purpose of photography, this would be the first opportunity I had for doing so. The seeds for this trip were sown in October 2002 as I began thinking about how I could go about arranging the time and resources for such a trip.
My primary goal was to arrange a trip in the spring that would take me to the desert regions of Southeastern Utah, Northeastern Arizona and Northwestern New Mexico that would cover at least ten days and take me to Arches National Park, Valley of the Gods, Monument Valley, Canyon De Chelly and the Bisti Badlands.
Early Stages:
In November I spoke with my wife concerning my desire to make this trip before getting any older (I was 56) and that I would need her support in several ways. She would need to take a vacation covering a period of time in April or May. Not so she could go with me, but because I take care of our two-year-old grandson during the week and I would need her to take over this chore so I could get away. Knowing and understanding that this was a dream of mine, she agreed to work with me and help that dream come true.
I was then free to begin some preliminary planning. This consisted primarily of getting on the Internet and finding what information I could about the areas I wanted to visit and ordering Moon Handbooks for Utah and Arizona. I already had a Moon Handbook for New Mexico and had discovered what a great resource they are for sites in the areas they cover.
This preliminary planning also included ordering the Photograph America Newsletter and some of its back issues, as well as deciding what photo equipment I would take with me. The later told me that I needed a larger backpack than I had. My wife solved that problem when she presented me with a Lowepro Pro Trekker AW photo backpack. Besides that wonderful present, she also informed me before the end of the year that she had arranged her vacation for the period covering April 11 through April 24. I now had a full two weeks for my trip and could begin planning in earnest.
January:
As the new year opened I was aware that my planning was not to be as simple as I had imagined. Having been on the Internet and reading my Moon Handbooks, I had discovered that there were far more areas that I wanted to visit than I would have time for. This meant that not only would I have to plan a workable route, but would have to limit the areas to what I wanted to visit most, and carefully plan how long I could devote to each.
Planning became further complicated as during the month I, while elimiating some locations, was also adding others. I was also making lists of supplies and equipment I needed to take and items I needed to purchase. However, by month's end, I had a working itinerary and a list of items I needed to purchase.
Final Plans:
During February I refined my plans. Knowing I could not devote the proper time to all the locations I was planning to visit, I worked out an itinerary I could live with. This meant giving myself the most locations possible while still giving me an adequate time to do some serious photography at each.
A major consideration in setting these final plans was having a good idea of where I would be staying while in the area, especially during the first half of my trip, since the second half would more or less take care of itself. I managed to solve this problem by making camping reservations at Dead Horse Point State Park for my first six nights and at a motel in Green River for the seventh night. Another reservation was made for a motel at Farmington, New Mexico on the 22nd. Even though my trip wasn't until April, campsites at the state park were nearly gone when I called. Only three remained.
With reservations at Dead Horse Point, that would be my planned base as I visited the Moab area. Camping there, the park would be the first area I would visit and photograph, giving me at least a half day in the area. The plans I worked out would give me a full day at the Island in the Sky area of Canyonlands on the following day, with the day after that reserved for the Moab area in general. This will take me to Monday the 14th, with the next three days reserved for visiting Arches National Park.
For day seven, the 17th, I'll break camp and visit the ghost town of Sego before drivng to Green River and checking into the motel there by noon. That afternoon I plan to drive and spend time on the San Rafael Desert Loop road.
On the 18th I plan to visit Goblin Valley in the morning and a nearby slot canyon during mid-day. The afternoon and evening will find me exploring the San Rafael Swell, and primitive camping somewhere in the area.
The next three days, 19th-21st, I plan to be in the southeast corner of Utah, where I'll be visiting Valley of the Gods, Monument Valley and the surrounding area, with at least one full day (the 21st) at Monument Valley. Camping will again be primitive camping in the area.
On the 22nd, I'll visit Canyon De Chelly in Arizona and then drive to Farmington, New Mexico where I have reservations at a motel there. I also plan to visit the Bisti Badlands for sunset photos.
The 23rd will be used for sunrise photos at Bisiti, with the rest of the day reserved for Chaco Culture National Historic site, which is near the Bisiti Badlands. And the 24th will be used for returning home.
For more detail, Click Here. For a journal of how the trip went, read below.
April 8, 2003: Left home at 11 AM. It was in the lower 30's, overcast and spitting snow. As I drove west, clouds began to disappear and were completely gone by the time I reached Colorado. I took pictures of stone fence posts near Russell, and visited Castle Rock. Castle Rock was a great surprise. The formations and outcroppings around it were very interesting.
I reached Limon, Colorado about sundown and was through Denver by 10:30 PM. I heard over the radio that all organized resistance in Baghdad had ended, although there are still pockets of resistance around the city. I was sad to hear that the number of American deaths has reached 91.
Denver was a bitch going through. Roads not marked well, and I once got lost. Once past there and into the mountains, my truck showed its lack of power. Some grades slowed me down to 50 MPH.
April 9, 2003: Still driving as the day began. I finally stopped at a rest area about 3:00 AM and slept a couple of hours. I arrived at Colorado National Monument a little after 7 AM. I spent about 2 1/2 hours in the park. I was mostly impressed by what they call Monument Valley, near Grand View.
Arrived in Utah about 10:30 AM. Excitement gripped me knowing I was near Moab, and I could see the snow-clad La Sal Mountains in the distance. However, I first visited Thompson Springs and the Indian Rock Art there in Thompson Canyon.
Had to backtrack a bit to get to Utah 128, the Colorado River Scenic Highway leading into Moab. I camped at the BLM Big Bend campground on the Colorado River, taking it for two nights. For the rest of the day I traveled along the river taking pictures.
Heard that rioting and looting were going on in Baghdad.
April 10, 2003: Couldn't believe how long I slept. Nearly 12 hours. I started off the morning, once I awoke, taking the La Sal Mountain Loop drive. It was very beautiful and it took me above the snow line. Afterwards, I drove into Moab and took the Potash Road. On it I discovered Long Canyon at the Jug Handle Arch. Long Canyon is a rough and narrow 4WD road, but I drove it nearly to the top in my 2WD high-clearance truck. Some places had very little clearance, and I feared I might get stuck. However, once I found a place to turn around, I made it back safely down the mountain. During the afternoon, I visited Canyonlands, primarily to scout locations before retuning there tomorrow.
April 11, 2003: I broke camp early this morning, about 7:30. Weather report last night said there is a chance of rain and maybe snow for the next week or so beginning Monday. Therefore, need to change plans somewhat. I need to do those things that require dry roads rather than perhaps having to pass them up altogether. So, I visited Arches National Park this morning to scout out the area before going on to Dead Horse State Park where I have camping reservations for the next six nights. Before check in time at Dead Horse, I returned to Canyonlands and the Green River Overlook. I checked in at Dead Horse just before 3 PM and set up camp. It's a beautiful campground and I have a nice view. Dead Horse Point, itself, is breathtaking. The most beautiful view I've seen yet, by far. I spent the remainder of the daylight hours out here on this point overlooking the Colorado River.
Before turning in for the night, I was able to watch several deer grazing not far behind my campsite.
From what little news I've heard, it seems the war is going well and Saddam's home city has fallen in Iraq.
April 12, 2003: Because of the possible wet weather coming into the area soon, I decided to visit the San Rafael area today. I got up at 4 AM and headed for the San Rafael Desert. Once the sun was up, I saw how beautiful it was. The first half of this desert loop drive was spectacular and ever changing. The last half was a bit boring, however.
I then headed to Little Wild Horse Canyon. It was quite crowded. I took a couple of rolls of pictures as I hiked it's first mile or so, but clouds in the sky threatened rain, so I shortened the hike and was back to the parking lot by 12:30. The rest of the afternoon I spent in the San Rafael Swell and along Reds Canyon Loop drive. This drive, alone, is worth the trip into the area. It was fabulous, and I had no trouble driving this back-country road in my truck. It was very easy to see why there are proposals to make the San Rafael area into a national park.
Once back at my campsite, I called my son and talked to Ian, my 2-year-old grandson. There were no deer tonight.
April 13, 2003: Must have been more tired than I thought. I slept 12 hours again and didn't get up until 8:30 this morning. I then headed to Arches for the day.
I hiked the Devils Garden, but found I was too far out of shape to hike it all. I only got a little past Wall Arch. Perhaps 1.5 miles in altogether. I took other pictures along the road back to camp. I could see dark clouds coming into the area, and the next few days might bring rain and/or snow, along with cooler weather. Was fairly windy today at times.
April 14, 2003: Couldn't sleep much, so I got up about 2 AM and did some paper work and wrote postcards to my grandsons. Went into town and had breakfast at Dennys and made it to Mesa Arch in Canyonlands before sunrise. Mesa Arch at sunrise is absolutely spectacular. Something everyone should experience. Afterwards, I traveled along the Kane Creek road. I wasn't that impressed by it. I then drove to the Needles Overlook south of Moab and returned to camp about one in the afternoon, sleeping off and on over the next five hours. Spent more time at Dead Horse Point before retiring for the night.
April 15, 2003: It was fairly clear as I awoke this morning at about 4 AM. I went into Moab for gas and breakfast. I'm burning about a tank of gas a day. I was at Arches for sunrise pictures. However clouds are rolling in and it was awhile before sunlight broke through. It looks like it'll rain.
Knowing it would be too overcast at sunset, I hiked the Delicate Arch trail, quite strenuous for me, but did have some sunlight before it became completely overcast. Winds were terrible. I thought at one point they might blow me off the mountain. Then, before I returned to the trail head, it began to rain. Took more pictures before leaving the park and heading back to camp for a nap. During the afternoon I headed into Canyonlands for weather pictures, and was able to capture a rainbow shot that I hope comes out well. After sunset, I headed into Moab, mailed some film off, got a hamburger and then returned to camp. Weather report says it'll be cold tonight. High winds are continuing. My tent is flapping around like a chicken with its head cut off, but so far is withstanding the winds and gusts of 50 MPH or so.
April 16, 2003: I got up about an hour before sunrise and headed south along US 191, just to see what I would find. When I found the road heading inside the Needles section of Canyonlands I took that and it was well worth the journey. Instead of being along the rim of the canyons, this took me inside them, to the floor of the valley. I stopped at Newspaper rock on the way out.
I then drove south to just past Blanding and took Utah 95 to the Mule Canyon Indian ruins, which were disappointing. However, to the east side of Comb Ridge (which is quite impressive), there were the Butler Wash Ancient Indian Ruins, and they were more to my liking.
I got back to camp about 5:30 PM after having supper in Moab. The day was far more pleasant. Not much wind and mostly sunny. This is my last night at Dead Horse State Park.
April 17, 2003: Broke camp after taking a few sunrise photos. Before driving into Green River I visited Sego and Thompson canyons. There wasn't much at the ghost town of Sego, but a few remains of the town are still there, and some old railroad bridges and tracks. An old homestead was all I found in Thompson Canyon, but it was interesting.
At Green River I was too early to check into the motel room I'd reserved, so drove along the Green River, had lunch and bought some supplies while waiting. Once I checked in, I took a badly needed shower and slept the afternoon away. Ordered pizza for supper, watched a little TV, cleaned my camera equipment and took a bath (again) before turning in for the night.
April 18, 2003: I left Green River before sunrise and headed for Goblin Valley. Dark Clouds were coming into the area again, but the day ended being very nice and only partly cloudy. Goblin Valley was quite interesting. The hoodoos were abundant and quite varied in shape. However, I didn't spend much time there and was back on the road by 8:30 AM. I picked up the Bicentennial Highway (Utah 95) at Hanksville. Not far south was the turnoff to Burr Point and the Dirty Devil River overlook. This is one of Utah's best kept secrets. The view is magnificent and I was there to enjoy it completely alone.
Continuing down Utah 95, the changing scenery was marvelous. The desert, canyons, rock formations, head of Lake Powell, the confluence of the Colorado and Dirty Devil rivers, made it a very enjoyable trip. However, as I neared Natural Bridges National Monument, it began to snow, but it turned out to be short-lived. I visited Natural Bridges before continuing on Utah 95. Turning on Utah 261, I visited Muley Point and drove down the Mukee Dugway before turning onto the road leading into Valley of the Gods. It was even more beautiful than I remembered. I was planning on camping there, but serious storm clouds were moving in. If there is enough rain one can get stuck inside the valley, therefore, I dove into Mexican Hat and then on to Monument Valley.
The clouds continued to get worse, and in fact, was getting quite dark, and turned to nearly black soon afterwards as I passed Monument Valley and drove into Kayenta, Arizona, and then on to Tuba City. Hoping to drive out of the weather, I went east and drove across the Navajo Nation, heading for Canyon De Chelly, with the idea of returning to Monument Valley the next day.
It was getting late in the day by now, and as I drove across the Navajo Nation, it began to rain. The rain turned to sleet and finally snow. I was driving through a blizzard. I continued on and by the time I reached Chinle the bad weather was over. I found a place to camp just outside of Canyon De Chelly and slept the night in the cab of my truck, after I'd been driving for nearly 18 hours.
April 19, 2003: The day was pretty much overcast as I awoke, but I could see patches of blue here and there. I drove along Canyon De Chelly's north rim but found it not very interesting. However, the south rim was another story. The valley was beautiful and the rim had some spectacular views. After visiting the canyon, I drove back toward Monument Valley. The cloud cover was breaking up and wasn't bad by the time I returned to Monument Valley. I was very pleased to see campsites available there and took campsite number 24, which overlooks the Mittens. I set up camp and spent the afternoon driving the Monument Valley loop.
As I retired for the night, and I could look from inside my tent into the valley. No one could ask for a better view.
April 20, 2003: I awoke to a beautiful Monument Valley sunrise. After taking a few pictures, I broke camp and drove the valley floor once again. Afterwards I drove back to Valley of the Gods. I found a place to primitive camp there and enjoyed a peaceful night of solitude after taking pictures throughout the day.
April 21, 2003: It was very overcast and I was greatly disappointed. I had hoped to take some nice sunrise photos in Valley of the Gods. I broke camp and headed toward New Mexico. I visited the Bisti Badlands, Chaco Culture National Historic Park, and drove into southeast Colorado before sleeping at a rest area for a few hours.
April 22, 2003: I awoke and drove into Colorado Springs before sunrise. I visited Garden of the Gods and then drove toward home, arriving shortly before midnight.
April 23, 2003: Slept most of the day and worked on my e-mail.
April 24, 2003: One of the biggest thrills of my life was when my son brought Ian over to see me this morning. Ian rushed into my arms, yelling "PaPa," and hugged me so tight that it almost hurt. He didn't want to let go and stayed with me every minute he was here. It was very touching.